2006 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon

VIN: 4S3BP676X64308232

Purchased on July 16th, 2006 by John Rowe

February, 2017 – Hailey, Callie and I at Warm Springs Lodge, Sun Valley, Idaho

January, 2024 – Lefty’s Sun Valley, Idaho

February, 2024 – Arapahoe Basin, Colorado

2006 Subaru Legacy GT Service Log

2006-SubaruGT-Service-Log Download

2006 Subaru Legacy GT Interior Rehab Part 1 – 02/2023. Small field mice figured out how to get into the interior of my car. I had no idea how they were getting in. Plus, the tan carpet showed every spill and was stained badly. I decided to remove all the lower dash, center console, front and rear seats, interior door trim and all the carpet. I finally discovered the mice were getting in through the flimsy stock cabin air filter. So I replaced it with a K&N washable cabin air filter PN: VF 2002 that has a rubber frame and metal screen which will prevent mice from entering in the future. I changed the color from tan to black by painting parts of the lower dash, center console, and interior door trim with Krylon All-In-One Fusion Satin Black Spray Paint. After scrubbing the carpet in a kidde pool filled with hot soapy water and then drying it in the sun I used SEM Color Coat 15243 to stain the ugly tan carpet a nice solid black. I also installed a surface mount USB charger on the dash to charge my phone and much more!

2006 Subaru Legacy GT Interior Rehab Part 2 – 02/2023. While attempting to touch up the carpet I over-sprayed some SEM 15243 Color Coat onto the door trim I had painted with Krylon All-In-On Fusion Satin Black spray paint. Unfortunately, this caused the Krylon paint to dissolve. So I had to remove the two trim parts, sand off all the paint and repaint them with the Krylon Fusion spray paint. In the rest of the video I show before & after shots of my progress: surface mount USB charger install, center console & lower dash install, the e-brake boot install, seat cover install, etc.

12V USB 63W USB C Car Charger with LED Voltmeter

Back in 2014 I was in Idaho skiing and it was like minus 10 degrees outside and the drivers side passenger door handle froze solid and broke when I attempted to open it, and I’ve suffered with it ever since. Then on April 1st, 2023, once again while in Idaho on a cold morning the drivers door handle also froze and broke… So upon my return I removed all four door handles, repaired and reinforced the two broken handles with steel rods I encased in epoxy (J-B Weld Cold-Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy), and as a preventative measure I also reinforced the two unbroken handles in the same manner. Then I lubed up all the handles moving parts and door latches with SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease PN: 21030 which is good from -45° F to +450° F.

December, 2017 – Note the 16″ Steel Wheels (initially installed on 5/6/2009). I’ve never been a fan of the oversize alloy wheel fad that started in the 2000s. I’ve seen several instances where those fancy big alloy wheels hit a pot hole and break apart or explode, leaving the driver stranded. Think about it, what type of wheels do ambulances, police cars and delivery trucks use? Steel wheels of course. Plus, more rubber on the road equals a smoother ride, more durability, better gas mileage and the tires themselves are less expensive.

These 17″ alloy wheels came on my new 2006 Subaru Legacy GT. On 5/6/2009 I removed and set them aside (in the attic) over 17 years ago. I hated having to be super careful not to scratch them while parking, etc. Recently, I decided to sand the four wheels with 400 grit sandpaper, coat them with two coats of Upol Adhesion Promoter, then three coats of Sem Trim Black Ultra. Then I placed the four wheels in the back of my Subaru for over two months this late spring – early summer. The average daily temperature inside the car was about 120 degrees F, which I believe helped the paint bind to the wheels. The finish is totally cool and they look incredible!

It would be awesome to have a set of summer tires on these 17″ alloy wheels for spring and summer, and a set of the Michelin Cross Climate 2s on the 16″ steel wheels for fall and winter.

The engine undercover got damaged, so I used steel hangers, zip ties, plastic strapping and epoxy to fix it.

All finished and ready to re-install. Completed on 9/28/2025.

My mechanic reported my disc brake rotors were rusted and suggested I replace them. I asked if rust impacts brake performance. His answer was no. So I cleaned, sanded and painted all four wheel’s brake rotors, calipers, suspension, and wheel wells, etc. (I forgot to get the ‘after’ photos of the right side).

Notes:

Being a California resident, it is no longer practical for me to keep this car. Example: On 9/25/2025 I drove from Carmel to Berkeley (about 120 miles) to naturally go to California Ski Company and get new bindings installed on my new skis! Anyway, on the way back I stopped for a break and when I tried to restart the car it failed to start. I waited about 15 minutes and then it started. So I drove all the way home without stopping, and the next day took it in to my mechanic. That’s when I learned there are three catalytic converters on this car. One before the turbo, one after the turbo and a third down the exhaust pipe.

My mechanic discovered the pre turbo CAT was totally clogged. Then he gave me the bad news. It is no longer possible to buy catalytic converters for my car in California. If you live in any of the other 49 states, no problem. What? He told me that CARB or the ‘California Air Resource Board’ wants me to have to discard my car, because they don’t like how much premium fuel it uses, and how it doesn’t get very good gas mileage. No company will ship catalytic converters for my car to California, it’s like a felony and $10,000.00 fine. WTF? California is completely out of control with these stupid MF’ing laws, I can’t stand it.

Anyway, my mechanic looked at how much dough I’ve spent over the last several years and then tells me: Don’t worry, I have a feeling Elves will be here tonight and will hollow out your catalytic converter for us. So magically, the next day the car ran better than it ever did. With a hollowed out pre Turbo CAT (or up-pipe), the car runs like never before, Yeehaw!

But what about the next time I need a part that I can’t get in California? Am I supposed to take the car directly to the wrecking yard? I don’t think so.

Important: On 11/3/2009 I had the Banjo Bolt Turbo Oil Line Filter removed. I had discovered by luck that this oil line filter was notorious for clogging up and causing premature turbo failures, so I had it removed. I’ve had no problem with the turbo, ever.

The engine layout on a 2006 Legacy is very similar to the WRX layout. Note the three Catalytic Converters. There is one before the Turbo, a second after the Turbo, and a third down the exhaust pipe before the muffler(s). Google AI says the third CAT never fails. The post Turbo CAT was replaced on 7/16/2018. And now the pre Turbo CAT is empty, so that’s good! Also, it passed the California Smog Test after removing the pre Turbo CAT, so that’s also good.

One thing to consider, being somewhat close to the Portland area gives you a great advantage as a Subaru owner. There are numerous aftermarket parts makers, suppliers and service providers that cater to Subaru owners not that far from you. Examples: RalliTEK, PREracing, and Primitive Enterprises. Plus, there must be a ton of older Subarus in wrecking yards within the Portland, Oregon area (just in case). None of these resources are available to me here in Carmel.

COBB TUNING ACCESSPORT V3 (AP3-SUB-002) – Original Price I paid: $650.00 (Now they go for $693.00)

NOTE: Shortly after I bought this Cobb Tuning AccessPort, but before I installed it, California made them illegal to use. If I would have installed it, the car would have Never passed a California Smog Test again. The AccessPort’s effect on the car’s ECU (Engine Control Unit) is always adjustable of course, but once you’ve used it, the AccessPort leaves a permanent signature in the car’s ECU. California Smog Tests are able to read the ECU and detect if an AccessPort has ever been used. If so, your car will never pass a smog test in California again.

PLUS: There is now another California law that makes it illegal for me to list this Cobb Tuning AccessPort online for sale in California, whatsoever. So, thanks to these wonderful California law makers, I can’t use or sell this Cobb AccessPort.

But in Oregon and all the other 49 states besides California, it’s not illegal. This car is already fast, but I understand this Cobb AccessPort will make this car Way Faster!!! Watch out!

SKU: AP3-SUB-002

NOTE: This Cobb AccessPORT has NEVER been plugged in or installed on any car, so the memory is clear and it’s ready to go!

The Cobb AccessPORT is the world’s most flexible and easiest to use ECU upgrade solution for your Subaru. The AccessPORT allows you to replace conservative factory settings with more aggressive calibrations to unlock free power hidden within your ECU. This is the last engine management solution you’ll ever need.

Compatible with USDM models listed below:

2004-2006 Forester XT MT/AT

2004-2007 WRX MT/AT

2004-2007 STI MT

2005-2006 Legacy GT MT/AT (including 2006 Spec B) 2005-2006 Outback XT MT/AT

Current Photos – Taken on 9/9/2026

There’s a tiny gap between the front bumper cover and the left front fender where the attachment clips are missing. Background: The day after my mom died in 2009 I was driving over to Campbell to help Don out. I had just left Marina where we lived at the time and out of nowhere a deer jumped into my path hitting the right front, then full impact onto the windshield, then it rolled off. To be able to see, I had to drive with my head out the window to get back home. My neighbor Joe, who was a former police accident investigator said I was lucky the deer didn’t go right through the windshield and kill me (I was going about 65MPH). He told me he’d seen that happen before, and he was surprised the Subaru’s windshield was so durable and held together. It was crushed of course, but the deer didn’t break through it. Anyway, over the years I’ve had the windshield replaced a few times and I always make sure to get original Subaru replacement parts – according to Joe it saved my life. I believe the tiny gap between the front bumper cover and the left front fender is a result of the repair work from the deer accident, and I also believe it is super minor and can be fixed my any auto body expert.

So, when we were finishing the remodel of our house in Carmel in early 2014, Ted and Chris Schade were there and I had to go to the hardware store to pick something up. We had just installed a new driveway gate, which was open so I started driving through it. But for some reason, Ted pushed the remote control for the gate, and the gate hit the car as I was driving through. The gate hit the right rear passenger door, etc., etc. It was a total drag. Later, Jay Pittroff, who is pretty good at working with bondo doing body work etc., did a nice repair job. Jay also fixed another dent on the front passenger side door where someone dinged the door pretty bad with a shopping cart. That turned out great. Ideally, I would have bought a new rear bumper cover PN: 57704AG09A which I just found on CarParts.com. for $180.49. Plus the front bumper, PN: 57704AG02A is also on CarParts.com for only $69.99. Then, repaint the whole car. It can be like new again! But I’m leaving that up to you. Callie is completely finished with spending money on this car. And I’m broke.

2/2025 in Colorado at an icy lot going like 1-2 MPH I bumped into the back of a Toyota pickup. Ultra minor.

I was going to touch up the carpet and interior paint, but honestly I just need to let go. Letting go of this car is incredibly hard for me. But it sounds like you want it, and you live in a perfect place to fix this thing up! I’d be so happy to come for a visit in the future and see it all like new again. It wouldn’t take that much. Anyway, it’s a dream.

Here I still have the original intake parts, two extra K&N Air Filters (so you always have a clean and dry one to swap out), a can of the K&N oil to coat the air filter with after washing it with dish soap and water. There’s a new piece of trim for the right side that got hit by the gate, and some other extra parts. There’s also a full can of SEM Color Coat 15243 Satin Black for touching up the carpet.

I also have the original Engine Cover Subaru PN: 14025AA22A.

This car comes with a Innova 3040d, which is a OBD2 diagnostic scan tool and code reader/code clearer. This car is heavily modified: IE: GrimmSpeed Intercooler & Air/Oil Separator, Subaru SPT Cold Air Intake, and the Invidia Q300 Exhaust System. I believe these aftermarket parts intermittently cause the car’s computer to throw random codes that make the engine light come on. It only happens about every 3-4 thousand miles, unless you use the cruise control. If you use the cruise control, after only a few hundred miles the check engine light will come on.

When you plug in the Innova 3040d you will see a P0700 code (a general warning from the transmission computer indicating that a fault has been detected). This happened to me several times winter 2025. You can see it in the service log.

The important thing is every time I got a P0700 code, I would clear the error code with the Innova 3040d and it didn’t come back until I used the cruise control again. Once I figured this out and stopped using the cruise control, I never got another P0700 code again. Who needs cruise control in a car like this?

And as for the the other random codes that occur about every 3-4 thousand miles? Well, they are always random, and when I clear them, they don’t come back (sorry I didn’t keep a log, it seemed pointless as they were always random). That tells me that these intermittent random codes are anomalies and are not to be worried about. It is kind of a hassle having to pull over and clear the code, but if they don’t come back, what’s to worry about?

Obviously, the real purpose of the check engine light and the codes is so mechanics can troubleshoot and isolate component failures. When a car’s computer throws a random code and you clear it and it does not return when you restart the car, that indicates there is no component failure. If there was an actual problem/component failure, the check engine light and the same code would return immediately upon restarting the car.

So, I loved having the Innova 3040d with my Subaru. I must have saved a ton of dough being able to clear all those random codes and check engine lights myself, Yeehaw!

The important thing to me is, the car has always been extremely reliable, and still is. Double Yeehaw!!

I think that’s about it… 100% total honesty here. Let me know what you think. Love You!